On February 5, 2005, President of Togo Gnassinbe Eyadema died following a supposed heart attack, finally bringing his 38-year rule to an end. An election followed in April of that year. Reports of corruption, a change in constitution, and an oppresive military presence all suggested that the win of Eyadema's long-serving party, the RPT, was far from democratic. Violence followed and thousands fled to neighbouring countries.
More than 25000 Togolese escaped to Benin where two refugee camps were established to accommodate them. Now, four years later, only one camp called Agame remains, with a population of only 3000. Many have returned to Togo and dispersed into Benin. Those that remain are fiercely proud of their homeland and refuse to live in a state governed by the RPT. Their prayers may finally be answered in next year's election.
I have read so many stories and articles about refugee camps. It was rather surreal to walk in one and was not at all what I had expected. The people were friendly and healthy, the camp itself was safe, there was clean drinking water, organised farming, and each house, though made from sticks and plastic, was neat and organised, each with its own tiny garden.
I guess it was not always this way, though. The camp has had years to settle and its population has decreased drastically since its opening. I spent much of my time there speaking to refugees, hearing their traumatic stories of how they fled in the night from military attacks and lost all their possessions. I was saddened. At the same time, I feel more inspired to pursue a career in freelance journalism.
I asked one of the people I interviewed whether many journalists still come to the camp. "Not since 2006," she said. Agame is obviously old news. If there's no tragedy, I guess there's no story, right? Let's pray there's no need for journalists to return to Agame next year.
